February 16, 2005

Eggs à la Escoffier

by peterb

I haven't had much time to read lately, but the time I have had has been spent reading Gina Mallet's superb book Last Chance to Eat: The Fate of Taste in a Fast Food World. I hope to have a full review done next week, but for now I'll just tantalize you with my interpretation of a recipe that she mentions in passing, one of Escoffier's innumerable versions of scrambled eggs. I've made it several times now. I think I'm addicted.

This is funny, because I have always despised scrambled eggs. I've always considered them the worst item on the American breakfast table, barely fit for consumption. Apparently, this is because everyone makes them wrong. I might dislike steak, too, if everyone always burnt it to a crisp.

Start with 6 eggs. As with most egg dishes, you'll have better results if the eggs are near room temperature. Crack the eggs in to a bowl, and add salt and finely ground pepper. Combine gently.

Put a heavy bottomed pan (I use a square-shouldered stainless steel skillet) onto medium heat. When it's up to temperature, add the eggs (no butter or fat...yet) and begin immediately stirring gently and constantly. The goal is to have them smooth, not lumpy. Don't cook them too fast.

When they're starting to firm up (but are still nice and runny) remove them from the heat and add an ounce and a half of butter, and three tablespoons of cream. Combine until incorporated.

I eat them with a spoon. They're very rich, and are a satisfying meal any time of day or night. Invite me over if you make extra.

Posted by peterb at February 16, 2005 08:03 PM | Bookmark This

Executive summary: Mmmmm....

I generally enjoy cooking eggs more than eating them... There is always so much promise, but I'm always disappointed when I sample the results.

This recipe was something different. I had some hippy-approved free range chicken eggs, some vermont cultured butter, and some heavy cream. I scaled the recipe for 2 eggs, and follow the directions.

Wow. Buttery, tastey, they were the best scrambled eggs I've ever had. A perfect snack at 9PM! Right?

Thanks for sharing this one.

Posted by Mark Denovich at February 16, 2005 09:53 PM

Yes, this is a great way to cook eggs. Most people do scrambled eggs way too quickly; this method should take at least 15 minutes and is well worth the time.

Posted by Berry at February 17, 2005 02:38 PM

I love the slow egg approach, but I don't like to put salt in while cooking.

Posted by zp at October 13, 2005 09:00 PM

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